In this series we will be chatting to members of CHMSN
What initially drew you to join the Cosmetic History and Makeup Studies Network?
In 2009, I started the Cosmetics and Skin website which brought me into contact with the wonderful Hillary Belzer who runs the Make-up Museum. When she established the Network with equally impressive Lucy Jane Santos I naturally joined up.
Can you share a bit about your background and what sparked your interest in cosmetic history and makeup studies?
I got interested in cosmetics after landing a job teaching science to beauty therapy students here in Australia in subjects such as anatomy and physiology, skin studies, occupational safety and health, cosmetic chemistry, and using electrical machinery.
I have always been a bit of a pack rat so I started collecting old beauty machinery as well as old cosmetic chemistry and beauty books, many dating back to the early twentieth century. A friend I made while working at one of the beauty colleges collected vintage cosmetics and this opened up another area of interest.
Are there specific projects or research areas within the discipline that you find particularly fascinating or that you’ve been actively involved in?
There are so many topics of interest in this area ranging from the age of the great beauty salons to the development of cosmetic chemistry as a distinct discipline. However, I find the historical differences between the French and American approaches to skin-care particularly fascinating, especially when it involves the historical origins of what can loosely be called “biologicals” in French skin-care cosmetics.
Are there any significant historical developments or cultural shifts related to cosmetics that you believe have been overlooked and deserve more attention?
I have made a small contribution to this topic but one area in particular that I would like to see better researched is the history of film make-up in the silent era, i.e. pre-panchromatic. Unfortunately, my own experience tells me it is going to be a tough gig!
Could you share a memorable experience or discovery you’ve had that has had a lasting impact on your research or perspective?
My most memorable experience was coming across my first vintage beauty booklet, a small brochure put out by Elizabeth Arden in 1923. So much information in such a small, elegant package. A direct, tactile link to a bygone era.
Since then, I have bought a number of these. A few collectors have also sent me scans of their booklets and there are now over 200 posted in the Booklets Project for use by fellow collectors and researchers.
And finally, can you tell us a little bit about your current research project?
My current research project is the same as it was back in 2009, to document the development of Beauty Culture, skin-care, and make-up between 1870, when Vaseline was invented, and 1970, when the corporations largely took over and, to be frank, things got a little boring. The beauty industry was a little like Las Vegas in this regard. Pre-corporate, it was also full of colourful characters.
At the moment I am looking into the history of the Myram Picker group which included, Outdoor Girl, Miner’s, Gala of London, and Mary Quant.
You can read more of James’ fascinating work over on Cosmetics and Skin and follow him to keep up to date with new articles and booklets.